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GO Browns Hat and Cowl
size 13 needle
1 skein Brown Sheep Orange You Glad Burly Spun
1 skein fuzzy brown yarn (I used Colibri, a fuzzy alpaca yarn)
1 skein fuzzy white yarn
Cast on 54 stitches
Join in the round and use a 2 x 2 rib stitch for 5 rounds
Join brown yarn
Knit next 2 rounds
Join white yarn.
Knit next 2 rounds with white carrying up brown yarn up as you go.
Rejoin brown yarn and knit 2 rounds
Change back to orange yarn. Begin your decrease. Knit 7 K2 tog;
Next round: Knit
Next round: Knit 6 knit 2 tog.
Next round : knit
next round: knit 5 knit 2 tog.
next round knit.
next round: knit 4, knit 2 tog.
Netx round knit
Bind off tightly.
Cowl: Cast on 82 stitches.
Join in round.
Knit seed stitch with orange for 5 rounds.
Knit 3 rounds with brown fuzzy yarn
Knit 3 rounds with white fuzzy yarn
Knit 3 rounds with brown fuzzy yarn
Knit seed stitch with orange for 5 rounds.
Bind off loosely.
PDF Pattern Instructions
(If you can’t open this PDF file you need Adobe Acrobat Reader. Get it here.)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 5” wide (uncurled) x 55” long
MATERIALS
1 Hank BERROCO LINK (200 grs)
Straight knitting needles, size 35 (19.00 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
GAUGE
4 sts = 5”; 4 rows = 5” in Pat St
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
SCARF
With straight needles, cast on 4 sts.
Pattern Stitch: Row 1 (RS): (K1, yo) 3 times, k1 – 7 sts.
Row 2: * P1, drop yo, make new yo, rep from * to last st, end p1.
Row 3: * K1, drop yo, make new yo, rep from * to last st, end k1.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 until yarn is almost gone, end on RS.
Next Row (RS): Purl, dropping yo’s – 4 sts. Bind off, working last 2 sts together.
Sweet Alyssum Shawl
A Free Lace Shawl Pattern
that uses only 2 balls of Kid Merino
Designed & Knit by Lisa Dykstra for Crystal Palace Yarns
Materials
2 - 25 gr balls Crystal Palace Kid Merino #4680 'misty lilac'
Size: approx. 30” across longest side
Abbreviations:
bet = between; k = knit; k2tog = knit 2 sts together; p = purl; PU = pick up; rep = repeat; RS = right side; ssk = slip one st knitwise, slip one st purlwise, insert the left needle into the fronts of the two slipped sts and knit them together; st(s) = stitch(es); WS = wrong side; yo = yarn over
Instructions
Cast on 4 sts.
K 7 rows. Do not turn.
PU and K 3 sts along side of rectangle. Pick and K 4 sts along bottom of tab. You now have 11 sts.
Turn work, k4, p3, k4.
Set up rows
Row 1 (RS): k4, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k4, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k4
Row 4: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 5: k4, yo, k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, yo, k4
Row 6: k4, purl across to last 4 sts , k4
Row 7: k4, yo, k7, yo, k1, yo, k7, yo, k4
Row 8: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Body of shawl
Begin chart or written directions follow.
Notes on chart:
Only right side rows are charted.
All wrong side rows are k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4.
The chart represents ½ of the shawl.
The 4 sts of garter ridges on each side and center st are not included on chart. So you need to k4, K chart, k1, K chart, k4. You may want to place a marker to mark garter st border and before center st to keep your place on chart.
Begin chart or work as follows: [corrections in Sections 1 & 2; Rows 1-31 edited in 3/5/08; Row 5 & 11 edited 5/18/08; 17-19-21 edited 5/24/08]
Section 1
Row 1: k4, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, (center st), yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: k4, P across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k4, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 5: k4, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k4
Row 7: k4, yo, k15, yo, k1(center st), yo, k15, yo, k4
Row 9: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, k3, rep bet * once, k2, yo, k1, (center st), yo, k2, *, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk* , k3, rep bet * once, k2, yo, k4
Row 11: k4, yo, k2, *, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk*, k1, rep bet * once, k2, yo, k1, (center st), yo, k2, *, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk*, k1, rep bet * once, k2, yo, k4
Row 13: k4, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, k3, rep bet * once, k4, yo, k1, (center st), yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, k3, rep bet * once, k4, yo, k4
Row 15: k4, yo, k23, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k23, yo, k4
Row 17: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * once, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * once, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 19: k4, yo, k2, *, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * twice, k1, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * twice, k1, yo, k4
Row 21: k4, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * twice, k1, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * twice, k1, yo, k4
Row 23: k4, yo, k31, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k31, yo, k4
Row 25: k4, yo, k33, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k33, yo, k4
Row 27: k4, yo, p35, yo, k1 (center st), yo, p35, yo, k4 (note you are purling on this row)
Row 29: k4, yo, k37, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k37, yo, k4
Row 31: k4, yo, k39, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k39, yo, k4
Section 2 – this is essentially the same as Section 1 with more reps
Row 1: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 5: k4, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 3 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k4
Row 7: k4, yo, k47, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k47, k4
Row 9: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 11: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 13: k4, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 4 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k4
Row 15: k4, yo, k55, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k55, k4
Row 17: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 19: k4, yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k4
Row 21: k4, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3*, rep bet * 5 times, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k4
Row 23: k4, yo, k63, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k63, k4
Row 25: k4, yo, k65, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k65, k4
Row 27: k4, yo, p67, yo, k1 (center st), yo, p67, yo, k4 (note you are purling on this row)
Row 29: k4, yo, k69, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k69, k4
Row 31: k4, yo, k71, yo, k1 (center st), yo, k71, k4
Section 3 and 4:
Continue as established in Sections 1 and 2 (thus doing 2 more sections) adding reps as needed and stopping after purled garter ridge (RS) row. Including this P row, do a total of 3 garter ridges (purling every row while maintaining yo increases as established). End after WS row.
On RS and with needle one to two sizes larger, bind off all sts using picot bind off.
How to picot bind off:
K a st without dropping it off needle. Now take the st on the right needle and slip it to left needle (you have made a new st). Rep this once more, two sts made. Now bind off 4 sts and slip remaining st from right to left needle. Rep this process of making 2 new sts then binding off 4 sts across all remaining sts. Weave in all ends. Block as desired.
About the Designer
Lisa Dykstra lives in Michigan. You can see more of her work on her blog, http://www.ayenforyarn.blogspot.com
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This bracelet can be made with any weight yarn or fiber. Use your imagination (and your stash) working to about a .
Cast on 5 stiches
Knit one row.
Increase at beginning and end of next 2 rows
Row 4: Knit 4 k2tog, YO knit 4
Row 5: Knit 2 tog knit to last two stitches. SSK.
Knit in stockinette stitch for desired length ending with a wrong side row.
Bind off. Sew on Swarovski crystal or any fun button that will fit throught the yarnover hole made at the beginning of the bracelet.
Headband Earwarmer
Check pattern:
mulitple of 3 plus 1
row 1 Knit
Row 2 Purl
Row 3 K1, *P2,K1; repreat from * to end
row 4 Purl
CO 4 stitches.
Knit 1 row (RS)
P2, M1L, P2 (5 Stitches) (WS)
K2, P1, K2
P2, M1L, K1, M1L, P2 (7 Stitches)
K2, P3, K2
P2, M1L, k3, M1L, P2 (9 Stitches)
K2, P5, K2
P2, K2, M1R, P1, M1R, K2, P2 (11 Stitches)
K2, P2, K3, P2, K2
P2, K2, P1, M1R, P1, M1R, P1, K2, P2 (13 Stitches)
K2, P2, K5, P2, K2
P2, K2, P1, M1R, P3, M1R, P1, K2, P2 (15 Stitches)
K2, P2, K7, P2, K2
P2, K2, P1, M1R, P5, M1R, P1, K2, P2 (17 Stitches)
K2, P2, K9, P2, K2
P2, K2, P1, M1R, P7, M1R, P1, K2, P2 (19 Stitches)
K2, P2, K11, P2, K2
P2, K2, P1, M1R, P9, M1R, P1, K2, P2 (21 Stitches)
After increase section is complete, you will be working on 13 stitches in check patternm between 2 x2 rib border. Repeat 4 rows of check patternm until you start decreasing.
To determine correct length, place CO tip of knitting to nape of neck and pull across your head (approx. 15 inches from teen/small adult) or about an inch above the ear on the other side. Start decreases after row 2 or 4 of check pattern.
Decrease:
Starting on Row 1 or Row 3 of a pattern repeat (RS):
K2, P2, ssk, K9, k2tog, P2, K2
P2, K2, P11, K2, P2
K2, P2, ssk, K7, k2tog, P2, K2
P2, K2, P9, K2, P2
K2, P2, ssk, K5, k2tog, P2, K2
P2, K2, P7, K2, P2
K2, P2, ssk, K3, k2tog, P2, K2
P2, K2, P5, K2, P2
K2, P2, ssk, K1, k2tog, P2, K2
P2, K2, P3, K2, P2
The rib border stops here, now you will be doing reverse
stockinette between a k2 border on the right side of the
headband, in order to match the increase end:
K2, P2tog, P3, P2tog, K2
P2, K5, P2
K2, P2tog, P1, P2tog, K2*** (If you want a button hole,
knit instead as K2, P3tog, yo, P2tog, K2)
P2, K3, P2
K2, P3tog, K2
P2, K1, P2
K2, K2tog, K1
BO
Complete the fun look with a small or large crochet flower, pin or desired adornment!!
Last Updated: 7/23/2010